How to grow hyacinths at home and outdoors

HomeHyacintheHow to grow hyacinths at home and outdoors

In order for a flower to fully show its decorative qualities , it needs careful care. The agrotechnics of hyacinths in the garden is in many ways similar to room culture, therefore, below are recommendations for growing hyacinths in open ground and some features of growing hyacinths at home are described separately.

Growing hyacinths in open ground, flowerbed: watering and whether it is necessary to dig up hyacinths

A flower bed with hyacinths blooms in the garden one of the first. Care for it should begin immediately after the snow melts and the soil begins to thaw. First of all, they remove the shelter and partially mulching material, with which the plantings were insulated for the winter, and after the appearance of sprouts, they begin to loosen, water and fertilize.

Hyacinths in the photo.

The land around the hyacinths should be kept free of weeds and loose, the absence of a surface crust will retain moisture and provide the bulbs with a favorable air regime. Insufficient soil moisture can cause poor flowering, so plants must be watered in dry weather. Watering hyacinths should not be frequent, but plentiful; by 15-20 cm. It is especially important to keep the soil moist during the formation of buds.

A necessary condition for the successful cultivation of hyacinths is regular top dressing. The first is given early in the spring, with the mass appearance of sprouts, with mineral fertilizers, the main part of which is ammonium nitrate (20 g / m 2 ), as well as superphosphate (15 g / m 2 ) and potassium chloride (10 g / m 2 ). At this time, plants especially need nitrogen, since there is an intensive growth of vegetative organs. When buds appear, the flowers are fed a second time, increasing the dose of superphosphate to 40 g / m 2 , potassium chloride to 20-30 g / m 2 , leaving the dose of saltpeter the same (20 g / m 2 ). The third top dressing is carried out at the end of flowering, when the plant actively stores nutrients, forms renewal buds, lays new axillary buds. It includes only phosphate and potash fertilizers, superphosphate and potassium chloride in an amount of 40 g / m 2 each .

All top dressing can be done both in dry form, by embedding fertilizers in the soil, and in liquid form, dissolving them in water. In the latter case, a smaller dose is used and the hyacinths must be watered first.

To prevent the spread of diseases several times a season, diseased plants are examined and culled. Diseased bulbs are removed from plantings and destroyed.

After flowering, the peduncle is cut high, or left, removing only wilted flowers, for which they run a hand over it from the bottom up. The leaves should naturally turn yellow and die off, in which case the largest amount of accumulated nutrients will pass into the bulb.

The answer to the question of whether hyacinths need to be dug up depends on the region of cultivation. In warmer areas with hot and dry summers, the bulbs can be left in the ground after flowering, but once every few years they also need to be dug up to separate the children and transplant.

In the conditions of the middle lane, digging and transplanting are an indispensable condition for the successful cultivation of hyacinths. It allows you to improve flowering, in addition, it makes it possible to inspect the bulbs, process them for the prevention of diseases, separate babies for growing, and reject diseased and defective specimens. It is necessary to dig up hyacinths at the moment when the leaves turn yellow and wither, later the ground parts disappear, and it will be quite difficult to find the bulbs. Usually digging is done in late June, early July. In dug out plants, the leaves are cut, the bulbs are cleaned of the soil and dried under a canopy for several days. Then a more thorough cleaning is carried out, removing excess scales, roots, separating the formed babies. Then a more thorough cleaning is carried out, removing excess scales, roots, separating the formed babies.

Then a more thorough cleaning is carried out, removing excess scales, roots, separating the formed babies. Late digging and storage of planting material at low temperatures are the main reasons for poor flowering. To obtain high-quality flowers, the bulb must go through a strictly defined sequence of stages of storage of various durations and at various temperatures. At the first stage, sorted and peeled bulbs are kept at a high temperature of about 25-26 ° C for at least 2 months, then they are transferred to a room with a temperature of about 17 ° C for a month. It is necessary to pay attention to the humidity of the air, if it is too low, the bulbs can dry out. In this case, to moisten, you can sprinkle the bulbs with water from time to time or shift them with damp paper.

Growing hyacinths at home: distillation and how to grow hyacinths at home

Distillation of hyacinths at home begins after the sprouts in pots reach 2.5 cm. At this stage, the plants are transferred from the place of cold and dark storage to the light and to a warmer room, up to 10-12 ° C. It is important to correctly determine when to start forcing, as moving the bulbs into heat too early will result in poor growth and poor flowering, and a delay in coming out of dormancy will result in abundant foliage growth at the expense of flowering. In the first few days, young sprouts are best covered with paper caps from sunlight, which can cause burns to delicate foliage. Hyacinths are exposed to a permanent place with a temperature of about 20 ° C and full illumination after the peduncle begins to form. At the same time, they must be placed away from heating appliances and protected from drafts.

Since it is necessary to grow hyacinths at home in conditions of short daylight hours, additional illumination is recommended for plants. The time spent by hyacinths in full light should be at least 12-15 hours, additional light can be provided with fluorescent lamps. During flowering, the pot must be rotated from time to time relative to the light source, providing uniform illumination.

Watering is carried out as the earthen coma dries up, avoiding both a lack of moisture, which leads to poor growth and flowering, and its excess, leading to rotting of the bulbs and falling buds. Moisture should not flood the leaves and bulb.

Hyacinths in pots must be fed at the same time, and with the same composition of mineral fertilizers, as those grown in open ground.

In a cool room, hyacinths bloom longer, temperature changes are best avoided.

Storage of hyacinth bulbs and agrotechnics of cultivation in water

If the bulb is going to be stored later, after the flowers have withered, just as in the garden, the flower stalks can be cut off, but the leaves should dry naturally. In this case, the plants continue to be watered and fed for a month, and after the aerial part of the bulb has completely withered, they are dug up and dried. Further stored in the same way as dug out in the garden. Since it will not work to grow hyacinth at home from the same bulb next year, it is planted in autumn in open ground for subsequent spring flowering in the garden. You can use such bulbs again for distillation only after a year.

Agrotechnics for growing hyacinths in water is similar to that described above. Plants are kept at the same temperature and provide the same lighting conditions. Top dressing is done by adding fertilizer directly to the solution. Bulbs are prepared for storage in the same way as for those cultivated in a pot.

Reproduction of hyacinths at home: time-tested methods

Hyacinths are propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. The seed method does not ensure the preservation of parental traits, therefore it is used mainly in breeding work. Seeds are sown in autumn in seedling boxes filled with a mixture of leafy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 1:2:1. The first two years, seedlings are grown in cold greenhouses, then in open ground. Young plants bloom for 5-7 years.

Propagation of hyacinths by baby bulbs is the most common method used in both amateur and industrial floriculture. The natural formation of children is extremely slow, an adult bulb forms them during the year, depending on the variety, from 1 to, in rare cases, 5-8. If the children are well separated from the mother bulb, then they are grown separately, while for young hyacinth plants, care does not differ significantly from that for adult specimens. If the children are separated poorly, they are grown along with the mother’s bulb.

Sometimes during storage, a large number of small children form around the bottom. Often this happens when the donut is injured, for example, in the process of removing old roots. Such small onions are usually grown together with the mother bulb, which, carefully, trying not to break off the children, is planted in the ground to a depth half as much as usual and must be covered for winter with a thicker layer of mulch for warming. Such children grow up within 4-5 years.

In industrial floriculture, artificial propagation methods are used, which make it possible to obtain a large amount of planting material in a short time. For reproduction, only healthy large, more than 5 cm in diameter, about 80-100 g in weight, bulbs are chosen. Two methods are used: cutting the bottom and notching the bottom. Both of them are associated with injury to the bulb, which then gradually dies. The procedure begins at the end of the rest period. The bulb intended for propagation is pre-disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, after which it is dried for at least 48 hours at a temperature of 20-23 ° C.

When cutting the bottom, it is completely removed, leaving the rest of the bulb intact. For this, a special tool is used, for example, a teaspoon or dessert spoon with a pointed edge, which allows the operation to be performed without injuring the middle of the bulb. After removing the bottom, check that the bases of all scaly leaves have been cut out. The cut surfaces are treated with a fungicide to prevent the spread of disease. Next, the processed bulbs are turned upside down, placed on a grate or sheet with sand and stored at a temperature of about 21 ° C. For 2-3 months, small onions with a diameter of 5-10 mm, up to 20-40 pieces, are formed at the site of the cuts. on one plant. The mother bulb with the children in the same inverted form is planted in a pot, covered with soil so that the young bulbs are barely covered by them. Landing after preliminary hardening is placed in a cold greenhouse. In the spring, sprouts will appear from the children, and the mother bulb will gradually collapse.

At the end of the growing season, the bulbs are dug up and further grown separately. With this method of reproduction, young plants will bloom in 3-4 years.

Cutting the bottom is less laborious, gives a smaller yield of children (8-15 pieces), but they are larger and bloom in 2-3 years. With this method of reproduction, the bottom is cut with a sharp knife to a depth of about 0.5 cm, on large bulbs 2 cuts are made at right angles to each other, and 2 obliquely, on smaller ones they are limited to 2 cuts. After the operation, the bulbs are placed for a day in a warm, up to 23 ° C, dry place, where the incisions open better. The opened cuts are disinfected and then planted and grown in the same way as in the previous method of reproduction.

Share with your friends


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

Other flowers
Other people actively read

Bell flower. General information

Bluebell (Campanula) is a genus of perennial, biennial and annual herbs,...

Lungwort (Pulmonaria) – obscure to medicinal

Plant type: herbaceous. Origin: Western Europe. Growing environment: garden or greenhouse. ...

Adrianthus grassy (Edraianthus graminifolius)

Plant type: perennial. Description: This plant looks great in a rock garden...
Saturday, September 30, 2023