Cordilines have been successfully cultivated in rooms for a long time, the lack of flowering and large size are compensated by the decorative foliage and exotic palm -like appearance. Any grower is quite capable of growing it, but it must be remembered that home care for cordilina is largely determined by its origin, since the inhabitants of the tropics and subtropics have different requirements for temperature, lighting and humidity. Below is information on how to care for cordilina, taking into account the individual characteristics of the species, recommendations are given for reproduction and disease control.
Growing cordilina at home and photos
The place for the flower is chosen so as to provide bright lighting without direct sun. Eastern and western windows are suitable for him, on the south – the culture needs shading, it grows well in artificial light. There is an opinion that cordilins are shade-tolerant, but in the shade they lag behind in growth and become smaller. In winter, it is recommended to move the plant closer to the window or additionally highlight it. Note that varieties with dark green leaves are not as demanding on lighting as variegated forms, in which the bright color turns pale in the shade.
The temperature of the content also depends on the species, the tropical ones need warmth all year round (in summer – 22-24 ° C, in winter – not lower than 18 ° C), the inhabitants of the subtropics require a cool wintering. All cordilins do not tolerate drafts and do not tolerate temperature extremes, therefore, for subtropical species, it is important in the fall to ensure a gradual, smooth decrease in temperature to 5-10 ° C.
The culture requires high humidity, it is regularly sprayed with settled cool water, the leaves are wiped with a damp cloth and periodically washed under a warm shower. Compact specimens can be placed on pallets with wet pebbles. Tropical varieties are especially demanding on air humidity.
Tropical varieties are especially demanding on air humidity. Watering through the pan is preferable, which prevents moisture from entering the stem growth point. Water should be soft, settled for at least 12 hours, its excess must be drained from the pan. Broad-leaved species are more moisture-loving than narrow-leaved ones. The culture grows well in hydroponics .
They are fed with any complex fertilizer at the dosage of the manufacturer, during the active growing season – once every 10-15 days, in winter – once every 30 days.
Loosening is an important element of care, cordilina responds well to the destruction of the surface soil crust, which improves air access to the roots.
Transplantation and reproduction of cordilina
Transplantation of cordilina is carried out in the spring, for young specimens – annually, for mature ones after two to three years. Its need is signaled by the appearance of roots from the drain hole; up to this point, you can annually replace the top layer with fresh nutrient soil.
The flower is planted in soil, consisting of equal parts of humus, sand, soddy and leafy soil, for the prevention of putrefactive processes it is useful to add charcoal to it, three handfuls per bucket, for looseness and absorption of excess moisture – brick chips (0.5 l per bucket). Mandatory drainage of expanded clay or pebbles with a layer of about 3 cm.
Reproduction of cordilina can be carried out by cuttings, root offspring, air layering, less often by seeds.
As cuttings, you can use the apical part and segments of the stem. In the first case, the top with 1-4 knots is cut off and rooted in water, adding a few charcoal and, if desired, any phytohormone there for disinfection. After three months, the first roots usually appear, after which the seedlings are placed in the ground. Thus, old specimens are rejuvenated; below the cut point, young shoots usually develop from the lateral buds.
For stem cuttings, stem segments 5–10 cm long are used. They are rooted in sand or a substrate consisting of sand, peat and humus in a ratio of 1:1:1, having previously treated the sections with heteroauxin or another phytohormone. The cuttings are kept at a high (25 – 30 ° C) temperature, constantly moistening the soil and spraying the aerial part. After 30 days, when roots are formed, young cordilins are planted in a permanent place. Similarly rooted and apical cuttings.
For propagation by air layering, cross-sections are made on the trunk under the crown, treated with a stimulant and, to retain moisture, tied with moss. Below the incision site, a bag of soil is tied, where the resulting roots will germinate. When they reach a noticeable size, the top is cut off and planted in a pot .
Root suckers are obtained by dividing the rhizomes, from which all roots are previously removed. Root them in the same way as cuttings.
Seed propagation is used only for natural species; under room conditions, it has no practical significance.
Cordilina dries and other growing problems
Cordilina diseases are often caused by care errors. The most common problems and their causes are:
- the edges and tips of the leaves turn brown – dry air, drafts or insufficient watering;
- the leaves become soft, curl, become covered with dark spots – lack of heat or a sharp temperature drop;
- light dry spots – sunburn;
- the leaves turn yellow and dry – cordilina lacks nutrition. Yellowing and falling of leaves in the lower part of the trunk is a natural phenomenon.
Overflow is especially dangerous for a flower in combination with low temperatures; in such conditions, cordilina most often dries and dies.
Of the pests, the plant is damaged by aphids, thrips and scale insects. Control measures are mechanical removal and treatment, if necessary, repeated, with systemic insecticides.
Below are photos of cordilins, which were not properly cared for and caused damage to the flower.
